Brace Yourself: A Complete History of Suspenders – He Spoke Style

Aside from materials, the shape of the straps themselves has evolved. Thurston’s first model had an H back; both straps went from front to back with an extra piece holding the parallel straps together. It resembled an uppercase H. X back suspenders, with two straps that crossed behind, came along next, and Y back suspenders, with two frontal straps that merged into one back strap, followed. All three kinds are still available on the market today. Laborers favor the H back, while the average consumer leans toward the X or Y back.

Thurston was not the sole inventor with skin in the game. Samuel Clemens, better known by his pen name Mark Twain, filed for a patent in 1871 for adjustable straps on all kinds of garments, both men’s and women’s. With the invention of the metal clasp in 1894, and its subsequent adoption in the manufacturing of suspenders, trousers no longer required interior waistband buttons. Yet, men today sometimes still opt for the classic look of button loops.

What Happened to Suspenders?

Aside from a small minority who cinched on belts each morning, men in the 19th century preferred suspenders. Only in 1893, due to a heatwave, did men temporarily shift to the belt. This would allow them to remove their suit jackets with decency.

In response to military uniforms in World War I, which entailed tight-fitting trousers with lower waistbands, the 1920s saw a rise in low-waisted pants, and consequentially, in part due to practicality and in part to changes in style, the belt won out.

While suspenders never became entirely obsolete, the majority of men shifted to wearing belts. This shift happened earlier in America, although England followed when the Duke of Windsor, also known as King Edward VIII before his abdication in 1936, sported belts.